The difference between a meh dish and a great one can be contingent on how much salt is used. Dinner recipes without any salt? Bland. Brownies with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt? Next-level. There are so many types of salt out there, it can be difficult to navigate which ones to use when. Don’t worry! We’ve got you covered.
Before we dive into the differences, let’s cover the commonalities. Salt is found naturally and either harvested from salt mines or via evaporating ocean water. At its most basic, salt is an ionic compound, sodium chloride (NaCl). But it has a wide range of uses from medicine (i.e. saline wash) to construction and de-icing roads to cooking and preserving foods. (In case you’re wondering: No, we don’t use the same salts for all of these functions. The FDA has some regulations to define what salts are considered edible.)
Two popular types of food-grade salt are kosher salt and sea salt. Does it matter what kind of salt you use? The answer is a resounding yes. “Absolutely! The type of salt you choose can affect both the flavor and texture of your dish, depending on what you’re making,” says chief food director Kate Merker.
What is kosher salt?
This classic cooking salt is beloved by chefs. Its coarser crystals are easier to pick up (and pinch) with your fingers. “Kosher salt is our all-around Test Kitchen workhorse. We use it for just about everything — seasoning meat and seafood before cooking, tossing with vegetables before roasting, salting pasta water, lining rims of margarita glasses and so much more,” says Merker.
“That said, not all kosher salt is the same. The size of the grains can be different — either coarser or finer — which in turn can produce different levels of saltiness,” says Merker. You will find some boxes labeled with “fine” or “coarse” kosher salt, but also note that the size of these salt crystals even varies from brand to brand. Some recipe developers will note their go-to kosher salt and the amount of salt you add to your recipes may depend on the brand you’re working with. Our advice? “The best thing to do is taste [as you’re cooking]. Whenever seasoning, start with a little and then increase. You can always add a pinch more, but you cannot take it away,” says Merker.
Kosher salts
Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt
Morton Coarse Kosher Salt
What is sea salt?
This type of salt is harvested from saltwater sources throughout the world. You will find French sea salt harvested from the Mediterranean Sea, Icelandic sea salt from the remote Westfjords of Iceland, American sea salt that comes off the coast of Oregon, Celtic sea salt, Cornish sea salt and more.
“Flaky sea salt (there is also fine sea salt) is our favorite for finishing. Their large flat crystals can transform chocolate bark into something truly special,” says Merker. Sprinkle some onto your next batch of chocolate chip cookies to take sweets to the next level. Or, add a bit to your next avocado toast.
The best sea salts to buy
Jacobsen Salt Co. Hand-Harvested Pure Flake Sea Salt
Harvested from a bay off the Oregon coast, this American brand features a range crystal sizes and flavored salts.
La Baleine Fine Sea Salt
This 90-year old brand harvests its sea salts from the Mediterranean Sea in southern France — allowing the salt to crystallize as water evaporates with help from the sun, sea, and winds (plus salt workers).
Maldon Sea Salt Flakes
This British sea salt is a Test Kitchen staple — recipe developers sprinkle a pinch onto everything from baked goods to avocado toast.
Saltverk Flaky Sea Salt
This Icelandic salt is harvested using geothermal energy. Looking for something different? Try the Lava Salt.
And fleur de sel?
This type of sea salt, which translates from French to “flowers of salt,” is hand-harvested during a few weeks in the summer. These salt crystals form naturally on the surface of the water, and are some of the purest you will find. A sprinkle elevates even the simplest foods — try a pinch on top of sliced tomatoes, salad greens or a fried egg.
Differences between kosher salt vs. sea salt
While sea salt is exclusively harvested from evaporated seawater, kosher salt can be harvested in the same way or come from underground salt deposits. And though both types of salt can be found in different-sized grains, kosher salt tends to be larger and coarser, and sea salt is often finer and more delicate. Sea salt is often more expensive than kosher salt.
What about table salt?
Typically found inside salt shakers at diners, restaurants and on some kitchen tables, this type of salt is much finer compared to coarse kosher salt. Many varieties have been fortified with iodine and have anti-caking agents added. How does it compare to kosher salt? Merker explains, “It’s very fine so a lot of salty flavor can fit into even just a pinch.” She recommends starting with much, much less than you typically would (if you’re used to kosher salt), since things can get salty pretty quickly.
Can you substitute sea salt for kosher salt?
Yes, but it may cost you. “Kosher and fine sea salt are especially interchangeable, but even fine sea salt will carry a higher price tag than kosher,” says Merker. For example: one pound of Morton kosher salt costs about $2.59, whereas a pound of the brand’s fine sea salt can cost upwards of $15. (A pound of its sea salt flakes can cost upwards of $22, so that’s best to save for sprinkling over finished dishes). That said, if you’re in the middle of cooking and realized you ran out of a specific type of salt — no stress! “If you are in a pinch and run out of one or the other, there is nothing to worry about, use what you have on hand,” says Merker. “Just make sure to taste your food and season as you go along. Start with a little and build up.”
